1270 by Frapin Review

1270 by Frapin                                                                      100ml EDP for $175 USD from LuckyScent

Notes: Dried orange, hazelnut, resins, dried plums, cocoa, tonka and coffee in top notes. The heart encompasses vine blossom, linden tree, pepper and spices. The base brings us precious wood, Guaiac wood, white honey and vanilla.

1270 was the year that Frapin family founded their brand and I’ve heard a lot about this famous niche perfume so thought I should try it. This is basically a solely pineapple scent for me. It’s strange that pineapple isn’t a listed note but it’s widely accepted as one by the community and is one of the main notes according to Fragrantica. It’s light, refreshing and uplifting.

Other fruity aspects come into it and, although the fruity notes are listed as dried, smell wet and fresh. It has some cologne and booze aspects to it. It smells like something a rich person, of any gender, would wear on a cruise ship through exotic islands whilst drinking a cocktail on a hammock. As it dries down it becomes darker with a touch of cocoa, coffee, pepper and spices. At this point it leans a tad more masculine.

It walks a fine line between sweet and sour. It’s classy and well blended. An hour or so further into the dry down it becomes woody and honeyed with the pineapple still being king. I get very little, if any, vanilla. It’s a very fascinating soft fruity oriental gourmand.

At times 1270 actually begins to make my stomach curl – the scent becomes off-putting to me for some reason. Sillage is very soft and it only lasts a few hours on me because of how soft it is – it vanishes quickly. Considering I don’t like pineapple or too fruity scents this isn’t for me. 5/10.

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Gothic I by Loree Rodkin Review

Gothic I by Loree Rodkin                                  50ml EDP for $140 USD from Luckyscent

Notes: Vanilla pod, Madagascar vanilla, spice accord, Tunisian patchouli and Indian patchouli.

The description on Lucky Scent does it justice “A moody vanilla shrouded in a mist of light woods and patchouli. Sensuous and unrepentant. We picture long hair whipping in the wind, a search by candlelight and a man driven half mad by love. Still, for all of its gorgeous drama, we could wear this everyday. It has the luxuriant skin-caressing softness of a vintage silk velvet cape. Worn over nothing. Voluptuous and mesmerizing.”

It opens with a deep and velvety vanilla, backed up by a dark patchouli and smoky spices. I really like the vanilla in this, it’s warm and full-bodied. The Patchouli is a strong force, dirty and earthy. Gothic I flickers like a candle between the Patchouli and the Vanilla – some reviewers have mentioned this might have to do with temperature; that the vanilla is more prominent in cooler temperatures and the patchouli is more prominent warmer temperatures. It’s very complex and well blended.

This is rich, luxurious, silky, seductive, mysterious, dark and dramatic. However, at times, I’m sure some people will find it medicinal or too incensey. This perfume is quite powerful and not for the light-hearted but it’s not at all too much for me. It’s reminds me of things like Phantom of the Opera and Sarah Brightman – both of which I love.

I believe you’d have to be a certain type of person to pull Gothic I off which, at times, I am so I’m probably going to have to buy a full bottle of this. It’s my dark secret. Some people have said this is really sweet but I find it actually suits it’s name, gothic, with only a touch of vanillac and patchouli-esque sweetness. It’s a definitely a night perfume and I’d keep it away from the office. It’s more suited to colder seasons and smells like an alternative shop. Both the sillage and longevity are medium on me. 8/10.

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Les Nombres d`Or Vanille by Mona di Orio Review

Les Nombres d’Or Vanille by Mona di Orio                 100ml EDP for $230 USD from Luckyscent

Notes: Top notes are petitgrain, clove, rum and bitter orange; middle notes are vetiver, sandalwood, guaiac wood and ylang-ylang; base notes are amber, tonka bean, vanille, tolu balsam, leather and musk.

This opens on me as very woody with an emphasis on clove and bitter orange. After about half an hour in it settles into a rum dipped sandalwood and guaiac wood perfume with a hint of tonka bean. I think it’s the vetiver which is giving it an almost fresh and sharp grassy wood scent.

I finally get something resembling Vanilla about an hour in with the amber – it’s subtle and blended with the woods. The noticeable hints of tolu balsam and leather blend with the perfume perfectly. It reminds me ever so slightly of Memoirs of a Trespasser by Imaginary Authors but more expensive and executed differently. Memoirs has a lighter smoked wood campfire feel whilst this is deeper, woodier and smells like being trapped in a sauna-room or cargo-hold for too long.

I think this is indeed artfully blended and well worth it’s popularity but it’s slightly too masculine and woody for me. It’s dark and deep. Bitter and smoky. There is a rich story in this, a cargo hold of a merchant ship on the high seas. Pirates and cigars sitting on barrels drinking rum.

I’m currently reading a book called S by JJ Abrams and Doug Dorst and this perfume reminds me of it and what I imagine the Ship of Theseus to smell like. I was expecting to love this but it doesn’t really suit me – I think I’d like it on a guy. I like the story Mona’s Vanille tells, sniffing it like a decoration – a ship in a glass bottle if you will, but it’s not something I’d actively wear. 7.5/10.

Eau Duelle by Diptyque Review

Eau Duelle by Diptyque                                                      100ml EDT for $135 USD from LuckyScent

Notes: Cardamom, cyprus, elemi, pink pepper, juniper, saffron, calamus, black tea, olibanum, amber, firnat vanilla, bourbon vanilla and white musk.

I was recommend this perfume by another vanilla lover who called it a ‘cold and spicy vanilla’ which is a very apt description of it. However I also find it bitter, sour, pungent and headache-inducing. No, I do not like this and I apologize for this because I hear it is well liked. Maybe it just doesn’t suit my body chemistry and maybe I should try the new EDP version which is apparently quite different but, after months of trying, I’m just not warming up to it.

This opens on me as sharp, cold and bitter. I get the pink pepper, bergamot and tea quite strongly. It’s airy, green and spicy to me. I feel like it’s a completely different perfume than the favorable reviews portray. It took me a moment to recognize the cardamom because I’ve smelt it in mostly warm and cozy perfumes so it was a twist in this.

The images that it brings to mind is an aromatic forest where it’s just began to snow or, equally, like a bitter but proper old lady in a tea parlor. It also smells rather sad like you’re sitting at a graveyard of someone you loved in cold weather. It’s like a cold spiced vodka tea cocktail.

I smell very little vanilla for the first few hours but then a sad bourbon vanilla comes through. It does settle into something subtler with more vanilla and gets a bit warmer as it dries down but I still don’t like it very much. 4.5/10.

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Vanille Bourbon Osmo Absolu by Il Profvmo Review

Vanille Bourbon Osmo Absolu by Il Profvmo                         50ml EDP for $135 USD from Luckyscent

Notes: Orchids (bourbon and yellow), heliotrope, tiare, amber, vanilla and rosewood.

On my vanilla adventures I found this gorgeous and almost entirely unique perfume. It’s a ridiculously pure, rich, milky and silky bourbon vanilla. It’s airy, light and elegantly whispers to you. It’s quite simple and linear but that adds to it’s charm. It’s warm and soothing with a touch of sweetness. I do get a small accord of floral notes (especially heliotrope) but they sit background to the Vanilla and enhance this perfume nicely.

It smells luxurious, one could bathe in this stuff and it’s perfect for layering. It’s a soft, simple and subtle perfume with low to moderate sillage but is quite long lasting. It’s easygoing, a brisk walk round the block with a smile before doing some baking. It feels rather happy and uplifting.

This is a perfume that every vanilla lover should try as it is close to pure vanilla extract and is far away from cheap cupcake vanilla. I might buy a full bottle of this at some point – a 7.5/10 for me.

Intense Cafe by Montale Review

35448Intense Cafe by Montale

100ml EDP for $170 USD from LuckyScent

Notes: Coffee, rose, amber, vanilla and white musk.

I originally got a sample of Intense Café from LuckyScent along with a dozen others and it was the one that stood out to me so I knew I had to buy a full bottle of it. The name is somewhat of a misnomer because it’s not really intense and it doesn’t really smell of coffee. I very rarely detect coffee from this perfume, as many other people have mentioned, but instead I get an almost milk-chocolate-smell when it dries down.

I know chocolate isn’t one of its listed notes so I thought is this the note that’s pretending to be coffee. Lately, however, I have been getting something closer to coffee from it – I think it smells like hovering your nose over the fumes of a cup of coffee, wafting a gentle coffee aroma, and not the scent of rich coffee beans. The mocha of coffee perfume.

However, it’s not called Intense COFFEE but Intense CAFE and it does remind me of a café. It puts the image of a quaint French Café in winter with Rose vines draped over the windows into my head. I imagine a tall and dark-haired metrosexual man, who’s wearing a trench coat and scarf, drinking coffee and reading a book in said French café whilst wearing this perfume. I can see it on this kind of man and I find that attractive. I believe it would suit any gender but not every personality – it is a sophisticated scent.

Rose certainly is the beautiful star of Intense Café. It opens with Rose which then lingers, fading, in the background as it dries down. I didn’t know I really liked Rose until this perfume. I’ve read that couple of people think it’s a dirty and masculine Rose but, to me, it’s actually the opposite. It’s a wet, fresh, musky, red and romantic rose to me. It smells freshly picked and like it has beads of dew sitting on its petals. However, if I’m heavy handed in applying it it does smell like jam, a jammy rose, as some people have previously mentioned.

About half an hour to an hour into wearing it I begin to notice the milky vanilla and the almost-chocolate notes. Now I adore Vanilla so it was in my territory now. The Rose grows fainter as it goes on and no specific note stands out; just a blur of vanilla-rose-musk-mocha. The Amber comes into play a few hours in making it a vanilla-amber combination which I love. It’s soft and delicate. It’s warm and cosy. It’s like a candlelit date.

Temperature definitely plays into effect with this perfume. The first time I tried this on I was in my  room with my heater turned up high and thought ‘this is nice’ but as soon as walked out into the freezing cold winter hallway I went ‘OMG what is that incredibly gorgeous smell!’  I spent the next few minutes walking between the cold corridor and my warm room to smell the difference. I think in warmer temperatures it amps up the sweetness making it almost sickly but in the colder temperatures it has this romantic and mysterious vagueness to it.

Sillage is moderate on me but it varies depending on the environment – if there’s a breeze I get lovely wafts of this. I find it moderate to long-lasting, depending on your definition, as it lasts about four to six hours at its full strength and then about another four to six hours at a soft and subtle vanilla-amber dry down. I’ve heard some people say this is extremely gourmand and sweet but I don’t find it so (and I love gourmand scents). It’s very elegant, fresh, chic and sexy to me. It comes in a beautiful shimmery purple bottle but, as it’s opaque, it’s annoying that you can’t see how much perfume is left. 9.5/10 for me.